Big, messy surf yesterday at the washout. Everyone was waiting in the winds to switch and clean up the surf and it only kinda happened. I guess it was more of a WSW and didnt have enough north in it to really clean it up. Guys were still ripping. Went out for water shots and probably waiting a little too long to go out because I was afraid I'd get too cold. I ended up going out in my 4/3 wetsuit, a 5 mil left bootie, a 3 mil left glove, a hood, and my dafin fin on my right foot! While I felt like a kook, I was very warm. Thats all that matters! Anyways, it was the end of the day and with limited light it was tough to get good action shots. I did get a lot of good sunset/lineup ones from the water.
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Justin