Big, messy surf yesterday at the washout. Everyone was waiting in the winds to switch and clean up the surf and it only kinda happened. I guess it was more of a WSW and didnt have enough north in it to really clean it up. Guys were still ripping. Went out for water shots and probably waiting a little too long to go out because I was afraid I'd get too cold. I ended up going out in my 4/3 wetsuit, a 5 mil left bootie, a 3 mil left glove, a hood, and my dafin fin on my right foot! While I felt like a kook, I was very warm. Thats all that matters! Anyways, it was the end of the day and with limited light it was tough to get good action shots. I did get a lot of good sunset/lineup ones from the water.
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Another fun day of waves on Folly!! The water has definitely cooled down with these cold nights the past few days. I surfed for a little then went in and got my camera right before high tide. I decided to wear some gloves while shooting in the water and it was not very fun. My gloves are a size too small and it feels like I am constantly making a fist. This makes it even trickier when trying to take some water shots.
I never really got comfortable while shooting in the water today. Thats most likely why I didnt get a lot of good water shots today. I tried to swim for like 45 minutes but thought it would be a lot nicer shooting from the beach in my warm fleece lined hoodie. The waves were fun today and stayed pretty clean all day. Waves were around stomach to chest high.
Make sure to like Follyhood on facebook and I always forget to mention but Im also on Instagram under the name Follyhood as well. Either way, say whats up!